Do you remember getting your very first custom-made board? Or better yet, do you remember going into some crusty-ass, grumpy shaper’s bay and ordering your first board?

For those keeping score at home: 6′ x 18 5/8″ x 2 1/4″ with Halloween themed fins. Thanks Mully!
If you’re like me and have been getting custom boards for basically your entire surfing existence (save for that first SNI twin fin I got from my stepdad), consider yourself one of the lucky few who have that pleasure. To me, scribbling down numbers and fractions on a foamdust covered piece of paper ranks right up there with Christmas Day and offshore mornings in the fall.
The amazing thing is there are actually waves right now (God I hope I didn’t just curse this little combo swell we have going in SoCal right now) and I plan on breaking (word choice?) in this new 6’0” bad boy at lunchtime today.
Let it cure? I said there were waves NOW, so no, it will not cure for three days—I’ll use the foot indentations to my advantage…
Looks like WRV team rider Will Tant has a freshie coming his way…guaranteed he’ll be just as psyched as me.
Sleep with it tonight? I’ll run that by my girlfriend as it’s been known to happen in the past…
Show it off (gloat) to the bros at the office? Of course, a post shred sesh viewing party is in the works.
Wax it with base coat? You fell for that scam? Cool water wax in a criss-cross fashion and it’s good to go.
That’s it for today, the more blogging, the less shredding…Go Surf.
Question: Do you have any new board rituals? Best answer gets a prize from my office (or Chris’ if I can’t find anything cool).



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October 8th, 2008 at 11:25 pm
Rituals? Try putting little balls of wax on the side of your fins, it’ll make you throw more spray. Trust me, Andy does it.
October 9th, 2008 at 11:39 am
Try being a fat ass, that’s how you throw more spray Haole boy.
October 9th, 2008 at 6:51 pm
I dunno ’bout that, i see plenty of fat ass longboarders who can’t throw more than a teacup of spray, while mr. beanpole Luke Steadman can send up a thick rooster tails whenever he pleases. I heard Pancho does the wax trick, too, and he throws the biggest fans on the wCT
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